The Sideways Effect

Although I haven't seen Sideways, my general impression based on others who have seen it is that Merlot is out and Pinot Noir is in. This notion was confirmed during my lunch yesterday at McCormick & Schmick's, in which Buena Vista head winemaker Jeff Stewart told me of this developing Pinot renaissance. "Without a doubt," said Stewart, "consumption of Pinot is up and a lot of it has to do with Sideways." Stewart, a cherubic fellow in constant good spirits, maintains, however, that Merlots are still a huge seller. (One distributor lamented Washington, D.C.'s lack of adventurousness, calling it "mainly a Bordeaux town." "People are still reluctant to serve Pinot Noir with fish, a much better combination than Chardonnay, which tends to bounce off," he added. Washington, D.C., incidentally, consumes more wine than anywhere else in the country.)

Nevertheless, Stewart and his colleagues were kind enough to share their latest and greatest Buena Vista products out of Carneros (wedged in between Sonoma and Napa). The first wine to be sampled was a 2002 Pinot Noir, full of earthiness (goût de terroir) but not as fruity as anticipated. The 2003 Pinot Noir, to be released this June, was extraordinarily complex, lighter, and definitely fruitier--but not jammy. According to Wall Street Journal "Tastings" columnists Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, "When a Pinot is especially rich with fruit, we often call it 'jammy' or 'jamlike.'" Stewart slightly disagrees, deeming jamminess more appropriate for a Zinfandel. Into the mix I enjoyed a well-balanced 2003 Chardonnay, due out in May. But then Stewart slipped past me a Merlot, to which I was outraged. "Who ordered Merlot?" I slurred. (It was nevertheless a fine Merlot.) I then returned to the safety and comfort of the 2003 Pinot Noir (Carneros Estate Vineyard Series).

Some words of wisdom from the winemaker: Whites are often served too cold and reds too warm. 58 degrees for a red is perfect. Stewart hopes to revamp the entire operation, producing a whole new generation of superior wines. From what I tasted (and what I remembered), he is definitely on his way to doing just that.

Many thanks to Jeff, who probably has the greatest job in the world, and Kelly Keagy of parent company Allied Domecq for their extending Galley Slaves this hospitality. For more information on Buena Vista wines, visit their website.